Croatia is a wine-producing country, ranking among the world’s leaders when it comes to indigenous grape varieties. But what do Croatian wine regions actually look like?
Nothing in Croatia is ever simple, and that includes the division into wine regions. Several classification models have been proposed, but in recent years the system adopted by the Croatian Chamber of Economy has become the most widely accepted, dividing the country into four regions: Slavonia and the Danube region, Upland (Bregovita) Croatia, Istria, and Dalmatia. Each of these regions has its own characteristics, challenges, and rules—and it’s only right that we explore them one by one.
Malvasia as the leading white variety and Teran as the dominant red… although these are just two of the main grapes, they account for the majority of wine production in Istria. Looking at sales data, Istrian Malvasia stands out as the best-selling wine in Croatia. Malvasia and Teran are the defining varieties of Istria—the first that come to mind when we say “Istrian wine.” But they are far from the only ones: alongside these two, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive here, as does Muscat of Momjan. The range of Istrian wine styles is as diverse as its producers, with some winemakers experimenting with terroir, maceration, and various blends and combinations in an effort to create something uniquely their own. Some sommeliers and oenologists claim that 2016 may be the best vintage for Istrian wines. Time will tell just how good it is, but for now we know that 2010 and 2014 were particularly poor years for Istrian winemakers.
A vast region that has been making significant strides in recent years. Dalmatian wines are no longer just powerful and robust Plavac Mali. As a region rich in indigenous varieties, Dalmatian winemakers are increasingly developing their native grapes in exciting ways, such as Debit, Pošip, Vugava, and Grk, while also planting Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Potentially the most important Dalmatian variety is Tribidrag, the ancestor of Plavac Mali, better known internationally as the Italian Primitivo and the far more famous Zinfandel. Primitivo, Zinfandel, and Tribidrag are in fact the same grape. Since DNA analysis confirmed the genetic origin of Zinfandel—and established that one of its parents is the Croatian Tribidrag (also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski)—Dalmatian winemakers have increasingly been planting and developing wines from this variety, which holds great potential and importance. And then there is Pelješac, with its Dingač vineyards and the potential to produce truly great wines.
Just as Malvasia is synonymous with Istria, Graševina is synonymous with Slavonia. It is planted there more than anywhere else, and Croatia produces more Graševina than any other country in the world. Graševina, Grašac, Welschriesling… these are just some of the names for this white variety that thrives in Slavonian vineyards. It is believed to originate somewhere in Central Europe, possibly even France, though we only know that it shares genetic similarities with certain Spanish varieties. Besides Graševina, Slavonia is also home to Traminer, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay, while the Danube region favors red varieties such as Frankovka, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. A curious historical note: records show that the first Croatian sparkling wine was produced in Slatina in the 19th century.
A region encompassing very diverse areas: the vineyards of Zagorje and Međimurje, as well as those around Zagreb, particularly Plešivica and Moslavina. In recent years, Plešivica produced the first winemaker whose wine appeared on a list of the most impressive wines of the year—Tomac, with his amphora-aged sparkling wine, included among the 75 most impressive wines of 2016. He is not the only one: Plešivica continues to produce exciting sparkling wines and distinctive styles, just as Moslavina has in recent years begun developing its indigenous variety, Škrlet. Alongside these, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rhine Riesling, and Pinot Noir are also cultivated in this region.
